Mike Parsons is a champion surfer who famously surfed a 66-foot wave at Cortes Bank, California, in 2001. In 2008 he broke his own record, riding a 70-plus-foot wave at Cortes. This video shows him surfing the wave Jaws at Maui.
Watching the remarkable footage, I am trying to imagine what it would be like to be that acutely connected to the ocean’s might. What does it feel like to have Her under your feet like that, to become one with all that unleashed wildpower?
Here’s an interview with Parsons talking about surfing Cortes and Jaws:
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